People queue outside the Unjani Clinic in Braamfischerville, Soweto, Johannesburg, South Africa on May 25, 2026.
Gulshan Khan for NPR
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It
can be hard to remember what the HIV/AIDS epidemic in Africa looked
like decades ago: Hospitals across the continent were overwhelmed with
young men and women, dying excruciating deaths.
South Africa was at the center of the epidemic. Activist Lucky Mazibuko remembers, vividly.
He told me that at the time, the country "was filled with the stench of death."
It seemed, he went on to say, that there would be no end to the suffering.
"There
was no hope, there was basically no light," he told me. "And even if
there was a light at the end of the tunnel, it looked like that of an
oncoming train."
The Esselen Clinic, which is situated on the same street
as the WITS RHI Women's Health Clinic continues to operate with
patients lining up outside on Esselen street, Hillbrow, Johannesburg,
South Africa on May 25, 2026.
Gulshan Khan for NPR
PEPFAR changed everything — across the continent.
President George W. Bush announced the President's Emergency Plan
for AIDS Relief, or PEPFAR, in January 2003. The program is often cited
as the most effective public health campaign ever, and is estimated by
the State Department to have saved roughly 26 million lives since its
inception. And for decades, the program enjoyed widespread bipartisan
support.
But the Trump administration has radically changed the
way the U.S. delivers foreign assistance, making sharp cuts and
creating uncertainty about future funding. So as my colleagues and I
tracked these developments, we wanted to see first-hand what these
sweeping changes could mean for the worldwide fight to combat HIV/AIDS.
A notice informs of the ceasing of the CATALYST study in
January 2025 due to USA policy changes and funding cuts, as well as
alternate options for HIV prevention and healthcare services outside the
WITS RHI Women's Health Clinic in Esselen street, Hillbrow,
Johannesburg, South Africa on May 25, 2026.
Gulshan Khan for NPR
That curiosity is what led us to Soweto Township in South Africa
to sit down with Mazibuko. He's an activist and former journalist, who
we met at the restaurant he now runs.
Back in 1999, at a time when the disease was still shrouded in stigma and shame, Mazibuko disclosed his own HIV-positive status in a column in South Africa's biggest newspaper.
Even
at funerals for those who had died after contracting HIV, Mazibuko told
me, "people spoke in hushed voices about what the cause of death could
have been, even if they knew."
When I asked him why he chose to come forward so publicly, he grew emotional as he told me that he felt he had no other choice.
People walk past the closed WITS RHI Women's Health
Clinic in Esselen street, Hillbrow, Johannesburg, South Africa on May
25, 2026.
Gulshan Khan for NPR
Over the course of nearly two weeks of reporting, alongside my All Things Considered
colleagues Matt Ozug and Vincent Acovino, we heard stories of how the
shifts in foreign aid have destabilized long-effective programs in South
Africa and neighboring Mozambique.
South Africa still has the highest number of people with HIV of
any country, and the U.S. Embassy in Mozambique notes it is home to the second-largest AIDS epidemic in the world. Our reporting in both countries was supported by the Pulitzer Center.
We
spoke with public health workers who worried that the shifts have
created uncertainty that could lead to loss of life or more infections.
But perhaps what stuck with me the most were the stories of resilience.
From the health workers going without a full paycheck to make sure they still have the trust of patients in their communities; to the innovative TV show educating viewers on healthy relationship dynamics; to the advocates doing everything they can
to offer sex workers personalized care after the closure of a
U.S.-funded clinic – everywhere we went, we met people who remained
deeply committed to their work.
You can hear our stories here, and see more in the coming days across NPR's social media channels.
Passersby outside the WITS RHI Women's Health Clinic in
Esselen street, Hillbrow, Johannesburg, South Africa on May 25, 2026.
Gulshan Khan for NPR
